Sumary of Looking for the finest French restaurants? Go to London, not Paris | Jay Rayner:
- Maison François in St James’s, which does a fabulous line in leeks vinaigrette and has a killer dessert trolley complete with a perfect paris-brest, is only part of the story.
- There’s the achingly indulgent Otto’s with its old-school lobster soufflé, steak tartare and canard à la presse.
- I found myself thinking of the food back in London: the rugged sausages and the deep-fried sage leaves with anchovy at Bocca di Lupo, the seafood fregola at Sartoria, the pasta dishes at Locanda Locatelli, Padella and Theo Randall.