Sumary of The Double Red Duke, Oxfordshire: ‘It’s a class act’ – restaurant review:
- The scallop had been cooked to a glossy mother of pearl within, and there, like a showily tinted comma from an illuminated manuscript, was the brilliant orange of the coral.
- that the environment demanded a certain ungainly Gucci-ed poise that didn’t fit his full-fat approach.
- Or make for one of the foliaged dining rooms with their plump green banquettes and the odd rust-coloured sofa, of a sort a food coma might pin you to at the end of the meal.‘A terrific piece of fish shown due care and attention’: turbot and lemon ketchup.
- The closest thing to innovation is a brilliant green broad bean mash with garlic, lemon, tahini and olive oil, drizzled with chilli sauce, though even that is hardly revolutionary.
- Hummus, made with broad beans rather than chickpeas, turns up all over the shop.
- It’s a dollop of punchy loveliness and comes with heat-blistered flatbread straight off the grill.