Chuku’s, London N15: ‘A tiny slice of sleek, contemporary Lagos’ – restaurant r …

A delicious, life-changing crash course in Nigerian tapasChuku’s caught my attention a couple of years ago, in its supperclub era, not just because it was “the world’s first Nigerian tapas restaurant”, but because co-founders Emeka and Ifeyinwa Frederick are brother and sister. The pair grew up in Ilford, and talked constantly about food, trying to figure out how you distil a cuisine eaten by 200 million people, yet...

How to make the perfect chocolate pear pudding – recipe | Felicity Cloake

The sweet mellowness of pear is the perfect foil for bitter dark chocolate in this classic British puddingThe enthusiasm of the testers I recruited this week showed a strong correlation with the quality of their school food – some were sceptical of my ability to recreate the magic of large metal pans full of tinned fruit and margarine-rich sponge, while others were puzzled by why I’d bother in...

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for mushroom risotto | A kitchen in Rome

Like clockwork, the rains come to wash summer into autumn, and a seasonal risotto noses its way on to the menu Not because the angle of the sun has changed; nor because of a message from the leaves; nor even because the mushrooms were irresistible, but because it was on the schedule: I made a risotto this week, because that is what we decided back in July, when...

Thomasina Miers’ recipe for spatchcock chicken with lemongrass-miso butter | The simple fix

The classic British roast chicken and spuds gets an Asian twist with a garlicky miso butter A spatchcock chicken – where the bird’s backbone has been removed and the carcass flattened – is a quick way of roasting a whole bird. Buying the whole bird also means you can then make a stock – the sticky roast bits and pieces from the bottom of the pan in this...

Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipes for tomato soup three ways

There’s tomato soup, and then there are these three versions: a rich, gingery gazpacho, a robust tomato and aubergine soup, and a classic cream of tomato soup with buttered onions and pastaThe thing about the end of summer is that although the earlier sunsets and cooler air signal a clear shift in the seasons, some of our favourite fruits are certainly not yet ready to move on. Sticky-sweet...

Meera Sodha’s vegan recipe for Shaoxing and soy braised tofu with pak choi | The new vegan

If you’ve never tried frying tofu until crisp, then giving it a bath in a tasty sauce, you’re in for a real treatAfter considerable experimentation, I’m willing to put a stake in the ground and say that I’ve found a favourite way with tofu. Of course, there might soon be another new favourite way, but until then, it is this: fry it hard, then braise it. Frying it...

Amazing maize: Tom Hunt’s no-waste recipe for corn cob ice-cream | Waste not

Maize has hundred of uses beyond sweetcorn, with the pulp, cob and even the husks having culinary uses, even in ice-creamThe Mayans, and after them the Incas and the Aztecs, have been cultivating and cooking maize since about 2,000BC. Now, maize provides about a fifth of human global nutrition, and is grown in such quantity that uses have been found for all its byproducts, from aspirin to shampoo.To...

Wong Kei, London W1: ‘Part of the capital’s folklore’ – restaurant review | Grace De …

Mention the name Wong Kei, and people whiplash back to simpler times in their personal historiesWhen lockdown relaxed, I began lurking again in Wong Kei in London’s Chinatown. Midweek, mid-afternoon, downstairs, alone – much as I have done for the past 25 years.For a while in the mid-noughties, I converted to Leong’s Legend – yes, other Chinese restaurants are available in this square mile – but Wong Kei...
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