REVIEW: We track down the true home of the Andalucian vernacular, where vegetables are the stars and …

review we track down the true home of the andalucian vernacular where vegetables are the stars and your wallet says thanks

IN a humdrum street in one of inland Andalucia’s most workaday towns sits this genuine dining secret.

Few readers will have heard of Alcala del Valle, an agricultural hub that sits about midway between Ronda, Osuna and Moron de la Frontera.

You won’t find it in the Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide and TripAdvisor lists just one thing to do in the town of 5,000 souls (a burial site, the Domenes de Tomillos, in case you’re asking).

But if you’re searching for the very soul of Andalucia, the very definition of the Andalucian vernacular, then you’ve come to the right place.

For restaurant Meson Sabor Andaluz is authenticity at its best; Andalucian folk presenting the very best of their centuries old cuisine.

OK you don’t walk into some charming rural idyll, with ancient wooden beams and an olive press, but its rustic decor certainly gives you that feel, as do the strains of flamenco that come from a local artist, not Cameron de la Isla or the Gypsy Kings.

The bar area is loaded up with shelves full of dried local pulses, peppers, herbs and peaches in jars. It’s a veritable pantry, with a regiment of fresh vegetables many from nearby huertas, alongside bundles of asparagus… for this is supposedly Spain’s home of asparagus, as owner Jose Aguilera explains…

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