Day four and delirium has set in. I see fish in every shadowy corner of the River Findhorn — ghosts holding in the current.
The water looks almost like the whisky made here in Scotland’s northeastern county of Moray, but it doesn’t have that dangerous glint. This is slick black tea, tannin-heavy and sickly. Closing my eyes each evening, I can see the brown water drifting by.
I’m on the Findhorn with my parents Victoria and Nick, brother Fred and Great Dane Mungo. We’re spending five days fly fishing for salmon on the river’s Altyre beat, near Forres. And things are opening up in Scotland with domestic tourism, outdoor dining and self-catering accommodation back on since Monday.
The big one: The River Findhorn – a 62-mile stretch of water runs through pine forest and hills purple-stitched with heather
This 62-mile stretch of water runs through pine forest and hills purple-stitched with heather, and cuts deep gorges in sandstone cliffs. It’s spectacular. Each day, the short drive and walk to the riverbank transports me farther than any flight could.
Our guide, Mark, has been fishing the Findhorn for 50-plus years. He explains where the fish will be at each pool and points out where large salmon have been caught…