Bunung Mulu in Malaysian Borneo was largely unheard of in 2012. Nine years after, it remains to be so! Back then, there were only two ways to get there: either take the small service plane from Miri to Mulu or do the treacherous three-day trek along the Headhunter’s Trail. Now, there is also the option to take the longer, more complicated river route. I obviously took the easiest option.
Paku Waterfall is located within the Mulu National Park.
From Mulu’s airport, it took some 20 minutes on foot to get to the park’s entrance. There was no public land transportation available then. What opens to you past the gate, however, is beyond words—the experience was and still is the best communing with nature I have had. The World Heritage-listed Gunung Mulu National Park is one of the most magical, most unspoiled places in Asia. Considering how difficult the access is, the superlative natural beauty that Mulu offers is without equal. One review on the site even aptly described it as “almost Jurassic Park,” and I could not agree more.
Cruising through the Melinau river in a dense jungle setting.
While there is a luxurious accommodation nearby, I opted to stay in one Rumah Panjang, a Sarawak longhouse, just outside the park’s gate…